Nichts Grimm in Marburg

Nothing Grimm in Marburg

Philipps-Universität Marburg, the world’s oldest Protestant university, is located in a “this is what story-book Germany looks like” town.  Like many universities its age, the University of Marburg has new offices and programs sprinkled among its most traditional majors and structures. (How would you like to study philosophy in the same classroom where it was taught in 1527?)  We spent a few days getting to know the dear people and places in this “über old school” college town.

Where there are 20,000 students there must be food.  Our wise university guide, Mariana, helped us host a “meet and greet” in the main cafeteria.  The novelty of our NWU promotional DVD and PowerPoint lured quite a few visitors.

Two of the many noteworthy students over all these years at Philipps-Universität Marburg are, Jakob and Wilhelm Grimm, both of whom studied law.  As is widely appreciated, the two collected and recorded folktales that people had been telling for generations (sounds like a perfect project for a Communication and English major).  Later, artists were inspired to illustrate the Grimm’s tales based on images from charming Marburg on the river Lahn.  The stained-glass windows of the ancient university buildings, the 800-year old castle atop the town, the patchwork of houses, taverns and shops from the middle ages, the steep, never-a-right-angle cobblestone streets, and tiny alleys all made us wonder if knights, queens, witches and dwarfs might appear at any moment.  Disappointingly, none did, but our spritely tour guide, Frau Hoffman, did challenge us to a jousting match.  

The "Old University" was built in, on, and around a 13th Century Dominican Monastery.  The ubiquitous stained glass windows are inspirational.

The beautiful Marburg Rathaus which houses one of three Brothers Grimm exhibits.

One of the things we learned in the "Red Riding Hood" portion of the exhibit, is experts thought Red needed some professional counseling.

The Marburg fortress now houses a university museum and classrooms.  Students can even apply to live in the fortress residence hall.  Better bring good walking shoes!

Grüß Gott?  Anybody there?

The Teutonic Knights built Elisabethkirche, one of the first Gothic churches north of the Alps, in 1235.  It was constructed to honor the still beloved Saint Elisabeth, Princess of Hungary, who cared for the poor and the sick in the area.  (Her likeness and name can be seen all over the town – we even had dinner at the Elisabeth Brewery.)

Geniessen Giessen

Enjoying Giessen

The evening we arrived in Giessen we were greeted by the slippery remnants of an ice storm, however, the warm reception we received literally melted the ice away.  We awoke the next morning to continued precipitation – but not the freezing kind.  The rainy Sunday was perfect for enjoying a museum highly recommended by our gasthaus hosts and university colleagues. 

Giessen boasts “the world’s first mathematical science center,” appropriately named the Mathematikum.  We, along with dozens and dozens of other kids, spent the whole afternoon exploring the wonderful world of math.  Surprised at such a statement from a Communication major and an English major?  Remember, we are big fans of the liberal arts education!

We sometimes had to elbow out the kids so we could play too.  Sorry little guy.

The Möbius strip is not what makes this photo amazing, rather, it is the fact that it depicts ONE of two different men we saw wearing red leather pants in the museum.  

This ball shooter, twirler, ringer, plinger-plunker, dropper, racer thingy was so cool!

This is just a small portion of the great hall of presidents (and there have been a bunch lo these 402 years).  Note the different hairstyles, robes, and colors in each painting.  Our hosts told us the presidents had to foot half the bill for their portraits - so those who were less wealthy used less color.  Some used less color as a statement of protest against university waste.  

We agrarian Nebraskans had a natural affinity for Justus Liebig University in Giessen since Herr Professor Liebig was the person who discovered, among other things, nitrogen-based fertilizer.  Our action-packed day put us in touch with a myriad of friendly JLU folks who teach, advise, and welcome international students.  We even learned about an innovative new program, the International Graduate Center for the Study of Culture (very cutting edge).  We had the distinct pleasure of sharing a lovely meal with the GCSC director, Martin, and his friend, Kirsten.  It was a lively evening, as these two knew their way around topics from video game morality and Texas football, to hermeneutics and crème brûlée torches.

Our wonderful JLU hosts, Heidi, Julia, Margo, and Petra

On every stop of our JLU tour we were greeted with warm smiles and hot coffee; the visit to the extremely cool GCSC was no exception.

The last course of our 4-plus hour dinner with Kirsten and Martin.  Yes, this is dessert, and yes, we did eat it all.

During World War II, about 75% of Giessen was destroyed.  Of the few remaining historic buildings, most are in the town center (the factories which were bombed were on the edge of town).  Of course new architecture has been integrated within the remaining old structures.  In addition, the city center is dotted with sculptures, the most famous of which is Die Drei Schwätzer (the three talkers or gossipers).   When we passed by this sculpture a genuine Giessner stopped as if on cue, and asked if we’d like an explanation!  He described how the three figures depict the most common Giessner “types”:  the worker, the hausfrau, and the ubiquitous professor (we were told that the university provides about 70% of the income for the city).  Our generous Giessner explained that, no matter what their profession, all Giessners are so friendly, that they will gladly stop in the middle of the street for a little chat with one another, and this is what makes life in Giessen so enjoyable.  Jawohl!

Just right around the corner from our cozy hotel - (Can you spot our golden guardian angel?)

A beautiful war memorial at the "new" castle. The sign on the building explained that, in December of 1943, brave Giessners stood atop the castle to fight off incoming bombers and thus, saved the structure.

Our friendly (and very chatty) Giessner

Ein Ball in Linz

A Ball in LInz

As luck would have it, our travels recently took us to Linz, Austria -- the official 2009 European Culture Capitol.  For the occasion this historic city on the Danube has newly constructed, renovated, and literally put a fresh coat of paint on every surface in anticipation for their guests from around the world.  We relished the beautiful contrast between charming, well cared for old buildings (e.g., our 500 year old hotel), and creative new structures (e.g., the new ultra-modern Ars Electronica Center building). 

It was a short walk from our hotel to the streetcar stop on the city square.

Blue!  No, Pink!  Purple?  Now Yellow!  How about White?  Green means go.  We stood on the bridge over the Danube for several mesmerized minutes snapping pics of the Ars Electronica Center in its different color configurations.

Travis's favorite exhibit in Linz - the concrete Porsches under the Lentos Art Museum (note the Electronica Center in the background).

Our delightful Johannes Kepler University host, Christine, offered us a fantastic glimpse into campus life and introduced us to a variety of enthusiastic administrators, staff, and students.  Theirs is a true centralized campus, where all university buildings are in one 90-acre location – most unusual for Austria.  Also remarkable is that the university was only founded in 1966 (quite a contrast from most well-known European schools).  Despite its relative youth, JKU has established itself as a leader in computer science, math, and business.  Perhaps the university’s namesake, astronomer Johannes Kepler (1571-1630) could foresee JKU’s bright future?

JKU has a variety of interesting sculptures.  The ducks in the pond seemed to be particularly fond of this one.  (Note the classroom buildings and the lovely woods in the background.) 

We believe JKU's Vice Rektor for International Relations could create world peace using only his iPhone and his gregariousness.

Maybe it was Kepler’s lucky stars that led us to Linz on the weekend of January 17; our hosts, Christine, and the JKU Vice Rektor were kind enough to extend an invitation to the university ball!  How could we resist?  The memorable evening began with a champagne reception where we mingled with the “who’s who of JKU” crowd.  Then, as international guests, we had the honor of joining the formal procession to open the ball.  The opening parade included the aforementioned “who’s who at JKU,” government officials of all sorts, and international visitors.  As part of the opening party, we had front row seats during the welcoming speeches and special dances.   The JKU president concluded his remarks with a proclamation of how dancing is a good fit for students and professors because it has natural connections to history, math, physiology, etc., and how, through dancing, we can practice precision and proper technique.  At which point, the orchestra conductor excitedly announced “Now all those in the procession party will waltz!” 

A reminder:  the Jensen dancing method is far less meticulous and methodical than is required by a real waltz – we wiggle, shake, and twist.  Kepler’s astronomy inspired us to quickly determine that if we rotated in a counter-clockwise circle like a little planet, with all the other bigger planets, stars, and asteroids whooshing past us, we wouldn’t get creamed on the dance floor.  So we somehow whirled and twirled our way through our first real Austrian waltz in front of 3,000 people.  Our amazingly gracious host, Christine, then rescued us, congratulated us, took us to the best table in the room, and filled our glasses so we could toast to new friends, new experiences, and having a ball.  

Our view of one of the several special dances during the ball's opening ceremonies

Foxtrot, Tango, Waltz - you name it, the Austrians can dance it.  Several times during the evening we were told the following:  After birth, Austrians learn how to ski, how to dance, then how to walk.

Our delightful hosts, Christine, Petra, and their dancing spouses!  Unbeknownst to us, the woman whom Karla asked to take this photo was the wife of the Lieutenant Governor of Upper Austria.  This fact is particularly amusing since Karla gently suggested, "Maybe you'd get a better angle if you stood up to take the picture?"  Well, ta-da.  Here is the picture she took!

When we said "Wiedersehen" at 2 a.m., we estimated not even half the dancers had gone.  We suppose they are just in better shape than we are!

Der Hausberg

The House Mountain

Whilst in Salzburg last week, we had the good fortune of lodging in a university guest apartment on the outskirts of town.  The dominant feature of our marvelous view from our expansive windows and balcony was the breathtaking Untersberg – a snow-capped mountain towering over the Salzburg valley.  Mama Theisl explained that every Austrian city, town, or village with even a little bump in the nearby landscape points to that bump, no matter how big or small, and claims it as their own, their “hausberg”; Untersberg is Salzburg’s house mountain. 

A free Sunday, bright blue sky, and the promise of a glorious view resulted in our all-day excursion to Untersberg that began with a gondola ride up more than 1800 meters.  Then we trekked up up up even higher.  With a bit of slipping and sliding, we traversed hills that skiers, snowboaders and mountain climbers were taking. Surefooted Travis ascended to the very highest point possible (at 1856 meters).  Not wanting to chance a fall on the steep, icy slope, Karla stayed at 1805 meters and established relationships with all sorts of folks, including dear Salzburgian grandparents and their almost four-year-old granddaughter (who has been skiing for three years).  These natives explained that, thanks to a funky inverted weather pattern, it was sunny and 50 degrees on the mountain, and a hazy, chilly 20 degrees in the city – an unusual occurrence. 

We, and everyone else on the mountaintop, sated our hunger at the alm (cottage) where we feasted on steaming hot gröstl (lots of meat mixed with potatoes) and kasnockel (cheesy noodles), schnapps and coffee.  Fortified from our hearty meal we again set out for more hiking until we, along with the alm cook and the two waiters, took the last gondola down the mountain.

A view of Untersberg from the base - see the descending gondola?

Now ASCENDING, we're not even half-way up!

And now we're at the top!

Enjoy the vistas

Hungry?  Here is the "top" of the cottage where you can get a delicious meal and enjoy the delightful company of fellow travelers.

And here is the North side of the alm - COVERED in icicles!

This is the sort of grub that serious mountain climbers like us require.

It must be repeated:  We love the mountains!

Sonnig in Salzburg

Sunny in Salzburg

Salzburg was spectacular.  It was exceptionally cold (-5 F as a low), but, hey, that’s winter in Austria.  Fortunately we were warmed by four bright days – not only warmth from the sun, but also from the sunny dispositions of our University of Salzburg hosts, Markus and Petra.  They guided us to historically and architecturally interesting university buildings (including their own – a former residence of an arch-bishop); they introduced us to fascinating people from all corners of the university; and they led us to the best Morzart Kugeln in town.  Herzlichen Dank!

Handwarmers from a Nebraska St. Nicolo kept us toasty warm atop Hohensalzburg Fortress.

Inside the Fortress looking out to magical Salzburg.

A gorgeous Salzburg sunset from a atop Mönchberg.  (The floating orb is the MOON - not the sun.)

Salzburg boasts several varieties of Morzart Kugeln.  The Furst handmade Kugeln were mouthwatering!

An 8:30 walk on the beautiful Morzartsteg (over the Salz river).  This is the kind of view that can really wake a person up!

Our charming Uni Salzburg hosts, Markus und Petra

Wouldn't you love to have this inspirational reading room in your library?  The Uni Salzburg law library is housed in a one-time police station. During renovation many years ago, craftspeople discovered these marvelous maps, painted directly on the walls.  They date from cir. 1600!

When on tour, even in a small hallway, one must always look UP - the view could be beautiful!

We love the official Austrian "stempl" - Markus was kind enough to place a very old stamp (from a former arch-duke-bishop dude) in our calendar.  A wonderful memento of our visit.