Party on the Fortress
In 2004 we visited Austria with Doug and Weezie. Part of our grand time included celebrating Leoben’s 1,100 birthday. That’s correct: Leoben was founded in 904. After about 350 years when it was clear the town wasn’t going anywhere, King Ottokar II of Bohemia decided Leoben needed a little protection. Thus, in 1262 he had the massive Massenburg fortress built on a hilltop overlooking the river. For nearly 600 years the Massenburg saw Leobeners through plagues, the Turkish wars, earthwakes, the Reformation, the counter-Reformation, and Napoleon’s occupation (still a very sore subject). Tired from protecting and in disrepair, the Massenburg was torn down in 1820, but the sturdy 13th century gate building still stands. In 1999 the entire Massenburg area was restored so that visitors may safely walk in and among the ruins.
For years the Massenburg has been a popular meeting spot for hikers eager to enjoy the 26 miles of beautifully maintained trails in the hills surrounding Leoben. Now that the ruins are more hospitable, the Massenburg is also popular for gatherings where people congregate to eat, drink, and be merry in Tracht, their traditional Austrian clothing. There were probably 800 people at last month’s fest and the Jensens, sans Tracht, were clearly the foreigners. This wasn’t a bad thing, however. For hours on end we were escorted from table to table to meet a variety of cheery Leobeners from all walks of life. Naturally, each hearty introduction was accompanied by delicious eats and plentiful drinks. To paraphrase Max Detweiller in the original Broadway production of The Sound of Music, “We like Austrian people; we like the way they live; we like the way we live when we are with them.”
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