Die Royalmast Behandlung

An orientation for the day's adventure along the Danube

The Royal Treatment

Our dear Paul und Christina Kupka recently gave us the royal treatment as we visited four Schloßes (castles) in Lower Austria (Niederösterreich).  This enchanting day demonstrated that the Austro-Hungarian royalty were a down-to-earth bunch who knew a thing or two about R&R.  With all the stress of ruling an empire, one really must occasionally retreat to nature  – and why not do it in a little weekend palace?  All four castles located on the fertile plains just east of Wien were heavily damaged in WWII, and all have been recently and lovingly restored.  We saw many treasures on our Schloß fieldtrip, but the biggest treasure is spending time with our darling Kupkas.  They so kindly introduce us to places we’d not otherwise know about – and their expert tutelage gives us a personalized and historical insight we’d never get from a guidebook. 

No matter the destination, chatting along the way is Karla's favorite pastime - luckily she was in good company.

Our first stop was the medieval Schloß Orth, once the hunting and fishing seat for the Habsburgs.  The castle was completely renovated in 2004-5 and is now home to a festival hall, art and history museums, and the museum for the Danube National Park which has an entire section devoted to fisheries (www.donauauen.at).  The National Park is one of the reasons that this town of only 2,000 also needs the large tourism office also housed in the castle (www.orth.at/). 

The august courtyard of Schloß Orth

Our next stately stop was Schloß Eckartsau, just about five kilometers from Orth.  Built in the 1720s, this chateau didn’t get a full facelift until 1908 when Archduke Franz Ferdinand spruced it up for large hunting parties.  Schloß Eckartsau is most often remembered as the domicile of Emperor Karl (the last ruler of the Hapsburg dynasty) and his family from November 1918 to March 1919.  The family left Vienna after Karl renounced participation in state affairs but refused to abdicate. The fact that Karl was unable to negotiate peace with the WWI Allies, and failed to abdicate, sealed his fate; the quick end to the long story is the family packed up and moved to Switzerland.  Schloß Eckartsau and lovely 66 wooded acres are now open for tours and special events.  Please visit www.schlosshof.at/eckartsau/eckartsau_main.html# for lovely interior photographs.

 Schloß Eckartsau was resplendent with hunting-themed decoration - inside and out.

Schloß Niederweiden was next on the nobility express.  This little baroque gem modeled in the French Chateau style, was built in 1693 for the Count of Starhemberg, a popular general in the Turkish wars.  The baroque architectural superstar, Johann Bernhard Fisher von Erlach, designed the mini-mansion.  Fisher von Erlach would be relieved that, although not often used, the Schloß has been restored and is now used for temporary exhibitions and events.  We were pleased to trace the photographic history of the Schloß in its elegant rooms.  (Photos of the damage the Schloß sustained after WWII were shocking.)  Our arrival also coincided with preparations for a feast for potentates from the Romanian embassy.   For some great areal photos of the palace, visit www.schlosshof.at/cms/index.php?page=niederweiden.

For the most part, the circular sunroom somehow survived the damage sustained during the war.  All the rooms, not just this one, had lovely light. We all agreed this palace was quite a manageable size and had a nice "homey" feel - we're ready to move in.

We're seriously thinking of someday hosting a dinner party here.  And yes, that is a REAL fire.  Sit-down dinners are held here in the original kitchen, though, should you want a cocktail reception for up to 300, you and your guests can be accommodated inside the Schloß proper. 

Schloßhof, built about 20 years later, was the highlight of our regal tour.  This sprawling country estate on 123 acres was built for the extraordinarily wealthy Prince Eugene of Savoy, a legendary war hero and art appreciator.  Another notable architect of the baroque era, Johann Lukas von Hildebrandt, designed the palace, gardens, and other buildings as an ensemble – and the harmony is still palpable. In 2002 the palace, farm, gardens, orangery, fountains, and all other elements of the complex were restored to their former glory.  The entire imperial complex – barnyards and all – are absolutely idyllic.  Not only can tourists visit the palace and grounds, they can also attend “live like the royals” days with actors, musicians, and performers in baroque costumes.  On the day we visited, Schloßhof was gearing up for a ball and at least one wedding. For more information and whimsical photos of baroque costumes, check out www.schlosshof.at

Herzlichen Wilkommen in Schloß Hof, where a map of the splendid surroundings is useful.

Unbelievable but true - this is just one of the several sets of gates to the back door.

The palace gardens are gorgeous - each flower-bed is bordered by a mini-hedge.

And if you grow weary of admiring the flowers, turn around to admire the view of Slovakia!

A few palace rooms were purposely left in the condition they were in after WWII.  The transformation is quite impressive.

The palace grounds support a working farm.  We visited on sheep shearing day.

Storks reside atop many non-functioning chimneys throughout the countryside along the Danube.  We saw several stork nests during our royal tour.

A gallant jump for joy in front of the orangerie and gardens

We don’t have the imperial power of the Hapsburgs or the lavish wealth of Count Starhemberg and Prince Eugene, but with friends like the Kupkas, our life in Austria is abundantly rich.