Flieder in St. Marx Friedhof

Lilacs in St. Marx's Cemetery

The sweet perfume and soft color of blossoming lilac bushes and chestnut trees were absolutely intoxicating during our walk through Saint Marx Cemetery, another stop on our “off the beaten path” tour of Wien.

A bit of history:  In 1784 Emperor Josef II’s edict to close all cemeteries lying within Wien’s city walls resulted in the creation of five “suburban” cemeteries, including St. Marx. Only 90 years later, all of these cemeteries were shut down with the opening of Wien’s enormous Central Cemetery (see our October blog).  Since St. Marx lay, at that time, far off the beaten path, it was pretty much forgotten; thus, the lovely Biedermeier-period cemetery survived and nature took over.  Over 6,000 tombstones stand inside the 15-acre oasis which was put under historic preservation in 1937.  Untamed nature and throngs of stone angels create a bucolic corner in an otherwise concrete and steel section of Vienna.  (The autobahn actually runs right over one edge of the cemetery.)

On December 6, 1791, Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart was buried in a wooden coffin placed in a mass grave (standard practice for the day) in St. Marx.  The exact location of his grave is not known, though 17 years later a monument was erected at the presumed correct spot.  In 1891, on the 100^th anniversary of his death, Mozart’s monument was transferred to the Central Cemetery’s musician’s circle of honor.  Wishing to immediately mark Mozart’s grave, a St. Marx cemetery worker created a temporary marker with discarded stones from other monuments in the cemetery – specifically a weeping angel and broken column (to represent a life cut short).  These two symbols were then incorporated into the design for the current memorial created in 1950. 

Travis collected "Gänseblümchen" throughout the cemetery to craft another fine necklace.

For more on St. Marx, visit http://www.wien.gv.at/english/parks/stmarxen.htm

And should you visit the cemetery in person during lilac blossom time, be aware of the potential hyperventilation hazard. 

Der Kochen Lehrgang

The Cooking Class

When Travis told Mutti Theisl he wanted to learn how to make traditional Austrian goulash and knödel (giant dumplings), Mutti was eager to oblige.  Mutti is famous for her wicked mad kitchen skills and she possesses keen instructional acumen to boot.  Watch out – Travis now knows all of Mutti Theisl’s secrets. 

No measuring - just "eyeballing" is secret #1.

We can't reveal the number of onions in the goulash - but there are so many that even the kitchen chicken is crying.

Is she pouring a beer in there?  We can't disclose - top secret.

The hand-formed knödel are ready to boil.  What exactly is in these hand-formed knödels?  Not tellin.

How long does it cook?  Sorry, we can't divulge that information.

One thing we CAN reveal is that you need a good Austrian beer to accompany this meal.  Mutti Theisl is in possession of Heiliger Bim Bam spicy paprika.  

Prost!  To the cooks!

Frühling in Leoben

Spring in Leoben

We enjoyed two gorgeous days in Leoben.  Mutti Theisl said she ordered the sun to shine and the trees to bloom especially for us.  As you can see, Mother Nature and Mutti Theisl are in cahoots.

We walk through this park on our way from our Leoben lodgings (owned by Tony and Christa) to Mutti’s house.

Christa, a dear friend and neighbor of Mutti, invited us to enjoy a “morning sit” in her garden.  When we arrived at about 10:30 she asked, “What would you like to drink – beer or vodka?”  We chose vodka.

A "morning sit" and refreshments in Christa and Tony's blooming garden puts a spring-spring in your step.

Five giant cherry and two giant apple trees stand in the garden.  A few years ago Tony was picking the best cherries at the very top of a tree when the ladder gave way and Tony fell several meters.  Though he was badly hurt, Tony recovered, and thankfully the trees survived too...Christa threatened to cut them all down.  The trees were saved by Tony's promise not to get on a ladder again.

Mutti sports her spring shoes as she prepares to bike into town.  (She doesn't own a car.)

Enjoying ice cream and a gorgeous view along the Mur river.

Die Semmering Bahn

The Semmering Railway

Last week we took a short jaunt to Leoben.  Spring is in full force and the scenery from the train was spectacular.  The train between Wien and Leoben runs on the scenic Semmering Railway, one of the grandest feats of civil engineering, not just in Austria, but in the whole world.  In fact, in 1998 the United Nations Educational, Scientific and Culture Organization (UNESCO) named the 41-kilometer stretch a World Heritage Center Site.  Although the entire trip from Wien to Leoben is picturesque, the Semmering Railway section which runs from Gloggnitz (yes, that is an actual name of a town) and Semmering (the top of the mountain pass) is breathtaking.

Over 20,000 workers built the railway between 1848 and 1854.  The railway’s designer, Carl Ritter von Ghega, was, and still is, an Austrian hero, because he literally paved the way for tourism to the lower Alps.  Incidentally, he used flagstone and brick rather than iron and steel, so the railway would be in greater harmony with its natural surroundings.  The Semmering Railway includes over 100 curved stone bridges and 15 tunnels.  Besides the gorgeous landscape along the tracks, travelers are also treated to beautiful railway stations, many of which were built from the waste material produced from tunnel construction.  Such care was taken in the original construction that the railway has been in full use since its completion.

The photos you see here are sights from our train window – a few on the assent, one of the actual Semmering railway, and a few of our gentle descent. For really great photos of the Semmering Railway from outside the train, take a look at these sites.  All aboard!

http://worldheritagesite.org/sites/semmeringrailway.html

http://www.semmering.or.at/en/

Austrian cows:  Where all that yummy whipped cream comes from

A lucky shot - and a great example of the Semming line's bridge architecture

Got to get over that mountain - the aptly named Schneeberg (Snow Mountain). 

I-think-I can, I-think-I-can...

I-thought-I-could, I-thought-I-could...

The view of Schneeberg from the other side

An example of the many lovely villas and hotels which were built in the mountains as a result of the railroad

How green is my valley?  Really green.

Almost to Leoben - just over the next hill

Unser Osterfest

Our Easter Celebration

We celebrated Easter in the rolling hills of Lower Austria with our darling Kupka Family.  Miles from anywhere or anyone, the day was a reminder of what one really needs in life – good friends, good food, good health, and a bit of gorgeous nature. 

We recharged our batteries in the Kupka’s rustic mountain home.  Their son, Boris, purchased this alpine Eden several years ago when the old farmhouse (cir. 1880) didn’t have running water or electricity.  Boris worked tirelessly to create a fairytale cottage in sylvan surroundings.  Only an hour’s drive from Vienna, it is the perfect escape from the hustle and bustle of the big city. 

Travis and Katharina engage in the Ei Krach, the egg crash.  Eggs are held so that the “pointy” ends can whack together.  You’d be surprised at how sturdy the eggs are, and at how vigorous the whacking is!

The most magnificent jewelry I’ve ever worn.  Karin and Lawrence (Boris’s wife and son) painstakingly created the necklace; Travis crafted the earrings and a ring.  All my jewels, particularly the earrings, were unexpectedly wilt-resistant.

Warm sun, crisp air, beautiful trees all added up to renewal, regeneration, refreshment.  It was a magical day to remember!

Karin, Boris, and Katharina soak in the view

Our postprandial stroll through the woods was dotted with stops to chat or marvel at the spectacular scenery.

Welcome to Eden!

When it was too chilly to sit outdoors, we retreated to the cozy sun porch and played a round of “Warum Nicht?” (Why not?) – a game Paul has had since his childhood during WWII.  The game has two sets of cards – one set with questions and the other set with answers.  You mix up each stack of cards, ask a question, and then randomly pick an answer.  The results can be extraordinarily amusing – and it is a great way to learn German.  Here is an actual pairing from our game:  Boren Sie die Nase? / Es ist sozusagen bei mir eine Familie Tradition.  (Do you pick your nose? / It is, so to say, a family tradition with me.)  Hilarious, ja?

Since it had been a whole two hours since we had last eaten, we couldn’t be sent back to Wien without at least a little delicious soup in the gemütlich kitchen!  From beginning to end, this was an Easter we will never forget.

Fastenzeit Nachdenken

Lenten Reflections

Even when it was still cold, grey, and raining in March, Austrian markets, shops, and restaurants were decorated with the promise of spring.  During Lent we saw our fair share of familiar bunnies, chicks, and eggs; we couldn’t help but also notice all the little lambs.  We found the ubiquitous and public use of this overwhelmingly religious symbol interesting and a poignant reminder of the season  - particularly when presented in chocolate form.  We couldn’t help but think of one of our favorite films, Chocolat, a Lenten perennial.

This is the Lenten schedule for the Theatre an der Wien.  After you note the lamb, you might also notice the production of Handel’s Messiah, which was presented in its entirety, as an opera – not a Passion, but an opera.  It was one of the most exciting and moving musical events we’ve ever witnessed.

Manner has been a Viennese confection institution for 110 years.  Everyone recognizes “Manner-pink” – and when you see it, you know something delicious awaits.  So imagine seeing a Manner-pink streetcar coming your way!  For two days during Holy Week, the Manner straßenbahn circled Vienna pausing at every station just long enough to distribute free Manner chocolate eggs – sweet torture for those who had given up chocolate for Lent.  We’ve never seen such an old streetcar, nor had we seen the special Manner streetcar.  We’re fairly certain they let it out of the stall only once a year.

Valentine is our 9 year-old upstairs neighbor.  He and his friend, Constantine, play soccer and other games in the courtyards on either side of our apartment.  Since we have warmer temperatures, we have the good fortune of seeing (and hearing) the two boys on a more regular basis.  No school on Thursday and Friday combined with perfect spring weather, turned Valentine and Constantine into fresh air junkies.  For hours on end we’d hear them energetically running, visiting, or playing with Blume (Flower), the building’s favorite dog. Every now and then we’d peak out the window to watch the boys amuse themselves.  On one occasion we looked out to see this scene:  The boys were curled up on a rug and it was clear they were feverishly working on a project.  They remained focused, and unusually quiet, for quite some time.  When we left the building and saw them in the courtyard, they asked us if we wanted a handmade Easter card.  It was stressed that these were NOT store-bought cards. How could we resist!?  We bought two.  The inside of each card held a poem that they had learned in school.  In perfect cursive penmanship each card read “Die Hasen machen sich bereit in der schönen Osterzeit.  Da haben sie sehr viel zu tun und dürfen nicht ausruhen. Doch jetzt sind sie bereit, für die schöne Osterzeit.” (The rabbits prepare for the beautiful Easter time.  They have much to do and are not allowed to rest.  Now they are ready for the beautiful Easter time.)  Oh those industrious rabbits.  We insisted that we pay for such fine workmanship, and finally, after some negotiations, we agreed on a fair price.  The boys then assured us that, befitting the spirit of the season, all proceeds would go to help the homeless.

Hard at work

Our dear friends, Constantine (left) and Valentine (right)